Storing Your RV: Options, Prep and What to Check

Storage options compared

Where you park matters as much as how you prepare. The main choices are:

Outdoor lot. Usually the least expensive. Look for a gated, well-lit lot with cameras. Your rig is exposed to sun, rain, snow and hail.
Covered storage. A roof or canopy over the parking space. It shields against sun and most precipitation, and is often a good middle ground in sunny or hail-prone regions.
Indoor storage or an RV garage. An enclosed building gives the best protection from weather, UV and theft, and costs the most. Some are climate-controlled, which can help with moisture and temperature swings.
At home. Convenient and cheap, if allowed. City ordinances and homeowners association rules often restrict RV parking in driveways or on streets, so check before you commit.

If you cannot decide, think about your climate, how often you will visit, how much your RV is worth and how much risk you are willing to accept.

What does RV storage cost?

Prices vary widely by region, size of the rig, and type of space, so any single number would be misleading. As a general pattern, outdoor parking tends to be the cheapest, covered costs more, and indoor costs the most. Facilities in or near large cities tend to charge more than rural ones, and longer vehicles need larger spaces that cost more.

To get a realistic figure, call or check the websites of several facilities within a reasonable drive and ask about:

Promotional rates and how long they last
Admin or deposit fees
Length limits and whether your rig’s total length including hitch fits
Insurance requirements
Access hours and any extra charges for access

Remember to compare total yearly cost, not just the headline monthly price, and consider the cost of damage a better space might prevent.

Choosing a facility

When you tour a facility, check:

Security: perimeter fencing, gated access with individual codes, cameras and lighting, and on-site staff.
Surface and drainage: gravel or pavement that does not pool water around tires.
Access: can you get in when you need to, and is the turning space adequate for your rig?
Pest control: especially for rodents in rural facilities.
Contract terms: notice periods, rate increase policies and rules about working on your RV on site.
Insurance: ask your insurer how storage affects your policy. Some policies have lay-up or storage coverage options. Your own insurer is the right source for specifics.

Storing at home

If you park at home, check zoning rules and HOA covenants first. Choose a level, firm surface, ideally paved or gravel, and keep the RV away from overhanging branches. Think about security: locks on doors and hitches, wheel chocks, and a visible location can discourage theft. Leave room to walk around for inspections.

Prepare the interior

A clean interior is the best defence against pests and mold.

Remove all food, drinks, spices and trash, including items in cupboards and the pantry.
Defrost and clean the refrigerator and freezer. Prop the doors open slightly so air circulates, using a latch or a rolled towel if the door does not stay open on its own.
Vacuum floors and cushions, wipe counters, and clean bathroom surfaces.
Remove bedding, towels and clothing, or store them in sealed containers.
Consider moisture absorbers, and leave interior doors and cabinet doors open slightly for airflow.
Close blinds and curtains to reduce sun fading, and seal obvious gaps that pests could use.

Protect the plumbing system

Water left in lines and tanks can freeze and split fittings, and stagnant water can grow bacteria. The steps below are the general approach. Your manual is the authority for your specific rig, particularly for water heater bypass and drain locations.

Empty the tanks. Drain the fresh, gray and black tanks, and clean the black tank if needed.
Drain the water heater only when it is cool and the pressure has been released. Many water heaters have a bypass valve so antifreeze does not fill the tank. Follow the instructions for yours.
Open low-point drains and faucets to let water out of the lines.
Choose a method. Some owners blow out lines with a low-pressure air compressor and a regulator, others pump RV antifreeze through the system, and some do both. Use only non-toxic antifreeze made for RV potable water systems. Do not use automotive antifreeze in the water system.
Protect traps. Pour a small amount of RV antifreeze into sink and shower drains and the toilet bowl so traps do not freeze or dry out.

Do you leave the faucets open when winterizing?

Practices differ. When you blow out the lines, you open the faucets so the air and water can escape. After the water is out or antifreeze has been pumped through, many owners close the faucets again, while some leave drain valves open so any remaining water can run out. Follow your manufacturer’s instruction. Leaving low-point drains open is commonly advised so residual water can escape, but check your manual.

If you will not be in freezing climates at all, you may only need to drain the tanks, sanitize and leave things dry, rather than fully winterize.

Tires, battery, propane and exterior

Tires: Inflate to the recommended pressure. Some owners lift weight off the tires with jack stands, but that depends on the vehicle and axle design, so follow your manufacturer’s advice. Tire covers can limit UV damage in sunny areas. Park on a surface that does not trap moisture against the tread.
Battery: Fully charge it. Either disconnect it, use a battery disconnect switch, or connect a maintainer or solar charger. Check it periodically during storage.
Propane: Turn off the supply valve at the tank. Leave cylinders upright and secure, and follow local rules for storage.
Exterior: Wash and, if you like, wax the RV. Inspect roof seals and repair any defects before storing. Retract awnings when dry and slide-outs as the manual specifies.
Fuel (motorized): Many owners fill the tank and add a fuel stabilizer, running the engine briefly so treated fuel circulates. Check your engine maker’s recommendations.
Vents: Some owners crack roof vents or use vent covers for airflow. Do this only if covers will keep rain out.

Storing a travel trailer outside in winter

Outdoor winter storage can work well with some extra care.

Winterize the plumbing as described above. This is the most important step in cold regions.
Keep the roof clear if heavy snow accumulates, since snow load and ice can damage the roof or cause leaks. Do this carefully and safely, and check what your roof can bear.
Use a breathable, properly fitted cover if you use one. Non-breathable tarps can trap moisture.
Park on firm, well-drained ground. Use leveling blocks under the jacks, not under the tires alone, and do not rely on the stabilizer jacks to carry the trailer’s weight.
Inspect it periodically for leaks, pests and snow load.

For more on freezing temperatures and protecting plumbing when you are using the RV, see our cold weather RV camping guide.

Covers

A well-fitted RV cover can reduce UV and dirt exposure. Choose one sized to your rig and rated for breathability. A poorly fitting cover can flap and scuff the finish, trap moisture, and in some cases cause more damage than none at all. Covers do not replace a roof overhead in hail-prone regions.

Checking on your RV during storage

Plan to visit regularly, such as monthly or more often in extreme weather:

Look for roof or window leaks, ceiling stains and musty smells.
Check for signs of rodents or insects, and replace traps or deterrents.
Check the tires’ appearance and pressure.
Check the battery charge.
Run the generator briefly if it has one and the manufacturer recommends it.
Open vents or air out the interior on dry days if permitted.

Getting back on the road

Before your first trip after storage:

Do a full walk-around of the exterior, roof seals and tires, and check tire pressure.
Reconnect the battery and test lights, slides, the leveling system and appliances.
Flush the antifreeze from the water system thoroughly, then sanitize the fresh water tank and lines.
Reinstall the water heater bypass settings to normal, and make sure drain plugs are closed before filling.
Check for leaks as the system pressurizes.
Check fluids and brakes if you have a motorhome, and have the brakes and bearings on any trailer inspected if it has been a long time.

Our RV maintenance tips include a schedule you can use for the start-of-season checkup.

The “10 year rule” for campers

You may see this phrase when shopping for a campsite. It generally refers to some RV parks and resorts that require rigs to be less than about ten years old, or to pass a photo inspection of their condition. It is a policy set by individual parks, not a law, and the exact age limit and exceptions vary. If you plan to stay at private resorts with an older RV, check the park’s rules or ask them directly before booking.